The OTK crew are the equivalent of a good loaf’s life-affirming natural yeasts. Gradually, though, like a sourdough starter, it began to absorb outside “contaminators”, gathering fizz and bubbles and a load of funk, until finally it became rich, deep and splendidly distinct. O riginally located under a railway arch in north London, built from equal parts brick and tahini, walls coated in olive oil and floors stained with spice, the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen started off simply as the place where I play with my food my low-tech lab where ideas turn into dishes, which turn into recipes.